Travels in Italy – Roma

Colossal with a great forum

Today, we went to visit the Eternal City, and got caught doing the obligatory stop of the Colosseum.  When I say ‘got caught’, that is almost literal, as before you even get out of the subway station by the Colosseum, you get accosted by people trying to sell you tours of the iconic landmark.  On this non-high-season day, it was still a mob scene outside this building.

To me, the Colosseum was rather underwhelming, as it is filled with too many tour groups and not enough space to actually appreciate the building itself; the restoration is not exactly spot on in getting you the feel of what it may have been like during the days of its operation.  That was the mediocre part of the day…


Then there’s the Palatine Hill and Forum, which is part of the same tour ticket as the Colosseum; hint: go to the Palatine Hill box office, as the lines are much shorter and buy your ticket there.  Wandering through this area gives you a good impression of what it may have been like during the heyday of the Roman regime, whether republic or empre.  There are fantastic views and interesting discoveries.  Because of its size, you don’t feel overrun by tour groups and masses of people, as you do across the street.

Bonus discovery: if you take a wrong turn toward the Palatine Hill, don’t just turn back, but continue into the church of Saint Francisca, which is impressive and usually devoid of people.

Il Scavi de Ostia Antica

Life among the ruins…

On our first full day in Italia, we focused on the nearby opportunity of visiting Il Scavi de Ostia Antica (the excavations of Ostia Antica).  For the very reasonable price of 8 euros, you get more than a day’s worth of exploration at this amazing site.  To put it mildly, a single day is not enough to appreciate all the wonderful structures that have been excavated at this old harbor of Ancient Rome; the route of the Tiber was right by Ostia Antica 2,000 years ago.

We decided to explore on our own with the map that we purchased, and we were immediately astonished by the detail that has been preserved across the millennia.  Get off the main thoroughfares to look at the plaques that are sometimes hidden from direct view to get to the really good stuff!

After well over 5 hours of exploring on a beautiful Italian Spring day, we decided to call it a day and go for a gelato.  We didn’t see everything, but did unearth some rather cool items that definitely are not seen by everyone; most tour groups appear to focus on a shorter route than we took, and when we got to the further regions of this park, we were rewarded with quiet time and some hidden treasures.

Our decision to base ourselves in Ostia Antica first appears to have been solid thus far, particularly after a great meal at La Bussola, which I recommend highly with fresh, well-prepared food and friendly service!

Tomorrow, we strike out into Roma!

Arriving in Italy

A walk through Ostia Antica

After getting as much work done at the last moment, as possible, we were off on our next sizable vacation in several years, packed in our flight from Boston to Rome like a good harvest of sardines.  8 hours later, we landed at Rome’s Leonardo da Vinci airport, which is beginning to look very nice with all the renovations that are under way.

We picked up our rental car, a rather cute Fiat 500, which is pretty sporty for a little car, and were off to our first stop in Ostia Antica.  Despite traffic, we checked into our really nice AirBnB location here in Ostia Antica and decided to crash for a little bit and refresh ourselves after the flight.

After this, we decided to explore the center of Ostia Antica, where we went for a rather nice walk, through the Castello I’d Giulio II…

The papal castle of Julius II looks rather impressive with its heavily fortified walls.  Considering his nickname of the Warrior Pope that doesn’t surprise; this pope was an interesting character, if what history writes about him is correct (Wikipedia article).  We’re looking forward to seeing the inside of this museum on Saturday, before we’re off to Tuscany.

After this pleasant stroll, we enjoyed a gelato (#1) and found some simple, yet delicious pizza for an early dinner (dinner is typically served after 8, but we were a bit too tired to wait for that).  Overall a good start!